The Kardashian Cheekbone, or, How to Highlight like a Drag Queen

The concept of highlighting and contouring is the foundation of all makeup application. Through the application of color we can emphasize, augment, and reshape our facial features. By using lighter colors we draw attention to features and create the illusion that they are further forward or more prominent. Darker colors recede and diminish features and draw attention away from them.

So what do Kim Kardashian and a drag queen have in common? A strong understanding of this fundamental concept. If you've ever seen a drag queen doing their makeup, such as on RuPaul's Drag Race, you might see something a little like this.

This is obviously an exaggeration of what "real girls" should be doing, but the concept still stands. Through highlighting the cheekbones, lines of the chin, and roundness of the forehead are accentuated. Through shadowing the hollows of the cheek appear deeper and the eyes more proportional. Eyes are re-shaped and pulled apart, and the nose is straightened and made to appear smaller.

Below is a guide to highlight and contour.

Choosing Color

Choosing a highlight and contour color is the first big step in the process. For sake of simplicity, I'll be using Mac shades and products, but you can use whatever products you like.

Highlight - Start with your normal foundation color and go one or two shades lighter. For example, if you're a Mac NW25 like myself, use an NW20 for your highlight. Stay in the same color family as your foundation. So if I'm an NW foundation (neutral-warm) I wouldn't use a cool tone (NC) highlight, and vice versa.

Contour - As with highlight, go one or two shades darker and stay in the same color family. Since I'm an NW25, I use something along the lines of an NW30, however I usually use a different product to contour, which I will discuss below.

Type of Product

There are several different products one can use to to highlight and contour the face, but they all boil down into two categories.

Cream/Liquid - These are products that need to be set with a powder. A colored powder over the top of these will make the color look much more natural. You can use liquid or cream foundations such as Mac Studio Fix Liquid or Mac Full Coverage, or a concealer such as Mac Studio Finish concealer. These products do not blend as easily as powders, but lend a more natural-looking finish.

Powder - These products can be used to set foundations or applied over an already-powdered face. You can use powder foundations such as Mac Studio Fix powder, or setting powders such as Mac Mineralize Skin Finish Natural. Powders blend easily on the skin, but over-application can make a face look cakey and too matte. These are the products I tend to favor contour, which you will see in my personal highlighting and contouring routine below. 

My Preferred Highlight and Contour Routine

1. Cleanse, moisturize and prime.
2. Concealer and Foundation - Use your favorite concealers to conceal any problem areas and then lightly apply your favorite liquid or cream foundation. I use Mac Studio Fix fluid in NW 25. Don't set your foundation yet!
3. Highlight - Using a cream product, highlight the areas you want to draw attention to. I use Mac Studio Finish concealer in NW 20.
1. Highlight the center of the forehead in a circular motion.
2. Starting at the inner corner of the eye, highlight down the sides of the nose, and make a line from the nostril towards your hairline at a forty-five degree angle. Fill in this triangular area.
3. Highlight a thin line down the bridge of the nose. Make sure this line is straight, because if it's not, it will make your nose appear crooked.
4. Starting at your ear, highlight a line across your jaw line to the chin, and up the other side.
5. Blend the edges of your highlight, either with your fingers or a buffing brush. 
4. Powder - Set your foundation and highlight with a neutral setting powder, or a colored powder in the same color as your foundation.
5. Contour - Using a powder contour your face. I use Mac Mineralize Skin Finish in Deep-Dark
1. Contour the hollows of your cheeks. Suck in your cheeks and apply the powder to the indentation.
2. Contour your temples and around your hairline. 
3. Contour the sides of your nose.
4. Contour under your jaw line.
6. Proceed with makeup as usual!

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